Starting again in Toronto

February 9th, 2008

Since one adventure has come to an end and another has begun, I thought that I would keep up the blog. Hopefully Chris will join in too. I have been in TO since Jan 21 and a lot has happened. My first few days were spent looking for an apartment for us. I found one that we both agree is pretty great. It is a building from the 1930s with original wood, beautiful hardwood floors, glass door knobs, 2 bedrooms, close to the lake and trails as well as BloorWest. We don’t have much furniture yet but we are making due with a futon and borrowed dishes until our stuff arrives at the end of the month. We have most of what we need - kettle, pots, etc. and we have gotten used to improvising. Chris arrived about a week after I left Vancouver and it was great to be back together after the week apart. After spending 24X7 together for 10 months, it felt odd to be so far apart. It was good time for both of us to spend some time on our own and with friends. Shortly after Chris arrived we moved into our apartment. It was a quick and easy move and it feels great to have our own space and be able to cook our own meals. While traveling was great, and staying with friends a nice treat, nothing beats being able to kick back at home and relax.

I started working at Yummy Stuff with Morag this week. It is amazing to be in a place that smells so amazing all day! I’m amazed and proud of what Morag has done with her business. It is exciting to become a part of it, and exciting also to be in such a different environment to the corporate world. Valentines Day is a busy time of the year at a bakery and it is a good chance for me to see how things operate. Getting back into the routine of daily work has been more tiring than I had anticipated! The end of my loafing around is welcome, but will take some getting used to!

Chris has been busy with interviews and job searching, and he has been an excellent house husband during this first week of work
for me. He’s made some great dinners and taken good care of stuff on the home front. I think the role suits him very well, actually.

As you may know it has snowed quite a lot in TO. I was dreading such weather, but am finding it quite nice actually! The snow has been gorgeous and the temperature cold, but not crazy cold. The sky has been blue and brilliant, so no complaints from me. I miss the snow on the mountains in Vancouver and I’m sure that those thoughts won’t go away too soon, however it is nice to be reminded of the beauty in this city too. So far so good.

Hope that all is well for anyone reading

Paula
xo

Canada Again

January 17th, 2008

Well here we are, back in Canada. We arrived on Monday afternoon from Tokyo via Portland on a very small airplane. It was quite turbulent on the way down through the clouds and I think it was our roughest flight of the whole trip! Anyhow, made it safely to Vancouver to a very rainy and miserable day. Our friend Sheila picked us up from the airport and it was nice to see her and Vancouver again. It was a very odd feeling to be back in North America. In the Portland airport, the ability to understand conversations going on around me was the first thing I noticed. It was tough not to eavesdrop though topics ranging from little David’s diapers and plans for a new patio weren’t all that exciting. Funny, when you are away and surrounded by different languages, the conversations always sound so important and so interesting. No doubt they were about the same kinds of things.

As far as emotions about coming home, it is difficult to say. It feels less of a shock than I was anticipating. It is great to be able to come “home” and make a cup of tea, or do a load of laundry without having to pull out the Tide bar and fill up a tiny sink. It is amazing to be back in Vancouver and see the mountains and the ocean. It was a shock to go into our storage unit (we were getting clothes and some necessities for our initial move to TO) and see how many clothes we have. Living with two t-shirts and two pairs of pants and everything else we need fitting into one bag each, it was funny to see all of our stuff sitting there waiting for us. It has been great to connect with friends and catch up on all the happenings from the year. It is nice to be able to read every sign and be very sure which washroom you are entering.

I find myself thinking of different places and different experiences frequently, but I don’t really feel sad about the trip ending. I think that we were both ready to be back in Canada, and ready to restart life. It is going to be another exciting new chapter in our lives. I feel proud that we did what we did, and that we managed to keep loving each other despite moods, illness, disagreements about directions, frustrations, etc. The past ten months of moving around the world have certainly had their ups and downs — the really good times will continue to be good and with time even the bad times will likely become good memories. All of our experiences combined to make the trip what it was. We were lucky that the trip went off without incident. We were able to connect with people in places that we couldn’t even imagine before we left Canada, and that will stay with us forever. The trip was full of contrasts and those contrasts have made us think long and hard about the way we want to live our lives. All in all, it was great to be away and it is great to be home.

Thanks to everyone who read our blog along the way. It was so great to get comments and see that the people we care about were caring enough to check in once in a while. It has been fun keeping it up and we are happy to have this record of the trip. I will be posting pictures from Tokyo, just so the record is complete. Can’t wait to see everyone, and share our 12,000 picture slide show (just kidding…. we wouldn’t do that to you). If anyone is thinking of doing a long trip we would be happy to help convince you to go for it!

See you all soon I hope!!

Paula
xoxo

Gastronomic Heaven

January 11th, 2008

Just a quick post to say that we have found gastronomic heaven here in Tokyo, with Tak and Jenny’s guidance. We drove straight from the Narita airport to a Yakitori place in one of the 6 official dowtowns of Tokyo, Roppongi. Our starter was small pieces of raw chicken (yes, raw!) with Japanese brocoli and some kind of broth. After that we had beautiful little sticks of all sorts of tasty stuff - gingko nuts, quail eggs, partially cooked chicken, chicken skin, beef, etc. We also had some of the best sake I have ever tasted, which went down very nicely with the meal. I will post pictures soon, because you have to see how beautiful it all is. My new favorite sweet is wagashi - traditional Japanese glutinous rice balls filled with sweet red bean paste. It doesn’t sound as appealing as it is. We tried cherry blossom wagashi, which was a beautiful little pink package wrapped in a salted shiso leaf and topped with a preserved cherry blossom. You eat the leaf and all, and the combination of salt and sweet as well as the crunch of the leaf and chewiness of the glutinous rice is heaven. The other one we tried had a whole fresh strawberry at the centre, surrounded by the red bean paste, then the glutinous rice. It was dusted in some kind of fine flour (I am guessing rice flour?) so it wasn’t sticky as you would imagine. After buying them all I could think about was trying them… I couldn’t wait to hold one in my hand as they look just so damn irresistable! I will never forget the first bite!!

Last night we went for an amazing sushi meal. We did it omakasi style, so the chef chose everything for us according to what was fresh and tasty. He goes to the Tsukiji market (which we also visited) every morning at 4 a.m. to buy his fish for the day. We sat at the counter and he told us that the oysters were the result of “some very good contacts” - they were delicious. The fatty tuna was absolutely gorgeous, the best we have seen and tasted anywhere, and he said quietly to our friend Tak “it is shit”. We all felt that it was a lot better than that and ordered seconds. The food kept coming, and each plate was more beautiful than the one before. We had a bright pink dish that was the liver and roe of some fish (sorry, don’t recall) — the presentation was so nice, with daikon, shiso and a few bright red fish eggs. The closest thing it could be compared to is foie gras… melt in your mouth, buttery goodness. Our next dish was interesting. While I did’t enjoy thinking about what I was eating, the taste was excellent and the memory a good one. The closest we came to an explanation was “from a boy fish, his eggs”…. it looked like some kind of apparatus closely related to an intestine. Really good, but very odd. The sashimi was more than great, it was stupendous. Tako, ebi, uni (urchin), bonito (with charred skin), beautiful tuna, scallops, white fish wrapped around tiny green chives, etc. We finished the meal with green tea and a preserved plum hand roll, which is basically nori, rice, a shiso leaf and plum preserves. We have a video of the chef making them- it was great to watch and so good to finish off the meal like that.

We have done more than eat during this week in Tokyo. We have visited some beautiful shrines, a massive bronze Buddha just near Yokohama, had a great home cooked meal by Jenny, made pottery in Mito, visited a traditional Japanese home, checked out Shibuya, Harajuku and other downtown areas, went to the Tsukiji fish market (and had a great lunch there), went to karaoke in Shibuya, and played Wii with Tak and Jenny (you know, when in Rome). It has been a lot of fun and we already know that this is a city we will definitely want to visit again.

Hope that all is well at home, and see you soon!

Paula
xoxo

Taipei Airport

January 7th, 2008

This morning at the crack of Bangkok dawn we got on a 747 and flew to Taipei where we now await for another flight to Tokyo. Had a very greasy beef noodle soup here at the airport. We are both quite excited to see Japan! And the excitement is building for returning home as well. That is the update from Taipei Airport. Over and Out.

Home Style Plans

January 6th, 2008

We are about 10 months of being abroad now and our thoughts for the past little while have been shifting towards home. I think that a combination of Christmas, so long on the road and all the $$ we are spending has led to that :) I think we are both pretty comfortable that we have seen lots and experienced lots on this trip and that soon will be the right time to come home and begin the next trip of sorts….

On January 7th we fly from Bangkok to Tokyo for a week with Paula’s friends Tak and Jenny. Then on January 14th we fly from Tokyo to Vancouver with a few hour stop in Portland, Oregon (does that mean I can add USA on our list of countries?). I think we arrive back in Vancouver at 11:15 January 14th, 10 months and 10 days after leaving. Seems like yesterday!

After some lengthy thought on the matter, we have decided to relocate our Canadian selves from Vancouver to Toronto around the 1st of February. For quite a while now we have both thought that we need to be closer to our families and the ‘freshness’ of coming home after this trip makes for a good opportunity to do just that. Of course there is the cold and there is the Leaf’s, but we are prepared to cope with both of them :)
I’m going to be heading back into the Nerd line of work, looking to restart my career in the Toronto market. Paula is going to be going to work with her friend Morag at Yummy Stuff. We are both pretty excited!

We will be initially looking for a matchbox sized apartment to live in until we can get ourselves back on our feet and decide what that will become. We have definitely learned how to live on small amounts of material goods over the past year….

That’s our plan so far :)

A Year in Review

December 31st, 2007

Hi Everyone,

We arrived in Bangkok from Hanoi last Friday. I don’t know if Chris’ post mentioned, but I have pneumonia and it has put more than a bit of a drag into the holiday season. We spent $400 at a clinic (thankfully we have travellers’ insurance) for chest x-rays and bloodwork to find out that my bronchitis never quite went away and that it resurfaced as its ugly cousin, pneumonia. I was prescribed bad ass anitbiotics and rest and I am just starting to feel more alive. This morning we decided to go to a computer mall and by the time we got there, I had to head back to the hotel. Not fun. As the days go on and the antibiotics do their job I feel I am getting better. It has been a long week for me and no doubt, even longer for Chris.

Thinking back on the year, I can’t believe how much we have done, seen, eaten and spent. What a year of contrasts in terms of the places we have visited, the people we have met, and our own feelings about all of it. There are times when I have never felt so excited and then times when I have never felt so bored. I feel really thankful that we have had such an awesome chance to do a trip like this, and I have mixed feelings about it almost being over.

In the spirit of New Years Eve I am going to list my 2007 highlights.

Getting engaged on the sand dunes, Erg Chebbi, Morocco
Hot air ballooning over Cappadocia, Turkey
Elephant bath time, Chitwan National Park, Nepal
Donkey ride to Valley of the Kings, Egypt
Getting to know the students at Kilimehewa school, Moshi Tanzania
Walking around in the ancient markets of Damascus and Aleppo, Syria
The beautiful food in Florence
Everest Flight, Kathmandu Nepal
Taj Mahal, Agra India - the gorgeous colours of saris against the milky white marble

I’m sure there are more, but these were the ones that come to mind immediately. It has also been a big year for a lot of our friends at home. There have been some big changes and we are looking forward to seeing new homes, new babies, new puppies, and hearing about new jobs, new romances and other exciting events that have happened since we’ve been gone.

Anyhow, I hope that everyone had a very happy Christmas. Best wishes for the new year and we’ll see you all soon.

xoxo
Paula

Christmas in Hanoi

December 25th, 2007

Well today is Christmas and even in Hanoi the madness it brings is apparent. Late last night I took a quick trip out of our Hotel room only to find shopping madness all around. For a country that is only about 10% christian (catholic), they certainly love to shop it up and put on the Santa costumes.

Paula is sick so she is sticking pretty close to bed trying to get better. I have been running errands and exploring Hanoi’s Old Quarter a bit. This morning we took a few minutes and opened up the stockings we had assembled for each other. Because we spend SO much time together, we had to purposefully take an hour or two apart a few days ago so we could get some things for each other.

Paula bought me some coffee that is supposedly run through a weasel’s digestive system before being packaged…YUMMM! And a little Vietnamese style coffee filter rig. The coffee here is very good. I also have a nice new “333″ tshirt. 333 is the beer out here. Some snazzy DVDs - Battlestar Galactica Season 3 and Star Trek Original Series, Seasons 1-3. WOO!

I picked up a nice silk robe for Paula, some candy and a somewhat tight Tiger beer tank top and a few other little goodies.

Christmas, even in Vietnam!

Merry Christmas everyone, we miss everyone much, especially over these few days.

xoxoxo

More photos: http://www.chrisandpaulasworld.com/photos/v/vietnam/.

Halong Bay

December 25th, 2007

Halong BayOdd looking limestone formation in caves at Halong BayPaula and I took an overnight trip out to Halong Bay on Sunday to see what it is all about. It turns out to be a magical bay full of limestone karsts. A beautiful place indeed. They surround you as far as the eye can see in every direction. Our trip was onboard a beautiful Junk called the Santa Maria. It had 8 rooms, each with a bathroom and air con! Not that we needed air con, it was pretty dreary and cool but did not rain, thank goodness. Anyhow, it was a wonderful way to spend a night. Next day we got up, I went kayaking and swimming while Paula rested (she was feeling a little sick from a cold that won’t give up). By afternoon we were back on our way to Hanoi for Christmas Eve..

More about Halong Bay

More photos: http://www.chrisandpaulasworld.com/photos/v/vietnam/.

Loving Vietnam - Pho Sho

December 15th, 2007

Paula - Selfshot on Motorbike in Saigon
HI!

We are in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), formerly known as Saigon, Vietnam. We continue to be impressed by Vietnam! The streets are literally filled with motor bikes, I have never seen so many bikes in one place. Crossing the street takes some getting used to, however with our previous training we seem to be managing well. Cars and motor bikes just seem to veer around you while you cross, Frogger-like. I was taken by the arm today by a tiny old lady who seemed to be looking out for me while we crossed. Once across I wasn’t quite sure who was leading whom, but I think it was her. HCMC has car taxis and motor bike taxis (”motos”). We have been travelling by foot and moto and the more you ride around on a motor bike, the more you feel a part of this city. A mandatory helmet law just came into effect today so rides feel a little safer, though the helmets are teensy - I have a great picture of Chris wearing a tiny green helmet. Not so sure that it would provide much protection, but definitely sure that it provided some smiles and laughs as his taxi wove through traffic. I rode with Goggles Paizano yesterday, literally over curbs, on the sidewalk, through opposite traffic - all before the helmet laws came into effect today. I got off the bike shaky in the knees but otherwise A-OK with a great trip memory.

We visited the War Remnants Museum and the Reunification Palace yesterday. They certainly didn’t hold any sad or gruesome detail back about the war here. It never ceases to amaze me seeing the horrible stuff that a country can go through and get past. We are so lucky in Canada.

Chris @ Pagoda - Chinatown, Saigon

Today we visited China town and saw some amazing pagodas. These pagodas are a mixture of several religions including Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. Like Cambodia, it isn’t rare here to see small shrines set up with a Buddha, some Chinese figures (at least one of which I am assuming to be Confucius), and sometimes even a Mary statue. Most of the times they have sticks of incense burning, a pile of fruit and a few cups of water, all lit nicely with twinkly lights or christmas bulbs. After China town we went to a local bar where they screen movies all day long. It was a nice break from the crazy hot sun and humidity. We watched Beowulf while drinking iced coffees. Not a bad way to spend a couple of hours on a hot Saturday. The movie wasn’t so hot, but the seats were comfy and the room cool.

Little Girl - Not camera shy - Saigon

Everywhere people are friendly and welcoming. People driving by on bikes will greet us, and today while my moto trailed Chris’, I saw a guy give Chris a thumbs up! People on the street seem quick to offer a hello, or a smile and kids everywhere wave at tourists. The food continues to be great, and pho has become our breakfast of choice. Like in Thailand, a bowl of noodle soup is cheap and tasty, served with a plate of fresh garnishes including basil, corriander, thinly sliced onions, hot peppers, a piece of lime and sprouts. So good.

We are heading to Nha Trang tomorrow for a couple of days on the beach on the way to Hanoi. Vietnam is a very long country - from south to north it is a 31 hour train ride!! We are taking the bus for this leg of the journey and we’ll figure it out from there. We want to be in Hanoi by the 22nd of December and have a couple of stops on the way there.

I hope everyone is having a good holiday season. It doesn’t feel much like Christmas where we are, but that’s ok. We’ll be thinking of everyone at home and missing you all.

We’ll upload some photos soon.

Bye!

Paula
xoxo

First thoughts on Vietnam

December 11th, 2007

Hello!

We crossed from Cambodia to Vietnam yesterday. It was a nice border crossing, a boat rather than a dusty bus for a change. From Phnom Penh it took about 4 hours to get to Chau Doc including dealing with border issues. Chau Doc is a nice town near the border and for most of the way there (on the Vietnam side of the border) the river is lined with homes both on stilts and floating. Immediately on crossing you begin to see women wearing the triangular shaped straw hat that you associate with Vietnam. There is also a marked increase of two wheeled vehicles both bikes and motor bikes. Not unlike the majority of places we have been, kids are shrewd business people here. The young girls at the border carrying buckets of cold drinks had an uncanny way of getting pretty well everyone to buy. No Vietnam dong yet? No worries as a 12 year old girl carrying a stack of money is the foreign exchange pro! Dong is 16,000 to 1USD… meaning that I will be carrying a calculator everywhere I go.

Today we took a minibus to Can Tho, another town along the river in the Mekong Delta. We have arranged to take an 8 hour tour tomorrow with a woman on her boat. From Can Tho you can explore the biggest floating market in the Mekong Delta. Things start early in Vietnam. We are meeting her at 5:30 a.m. and heading to the river. Apparently by 9 a.m. the market has pretty well fizzled for the day. From the market we will head through a mangrove forest and some very narrow canals, and visit a fruit orchard as well. I am looking forward to that. We are both hoping to sample durian (a scary looking and smelling fruit that supposedly tastes like custard), as well as some other unidentifiable fruits that we have seen in the markets. Fruit markets here are like paint pallets.

So far we have a great impression of Vietnam. We’ve had some beautiful food including prawns in mango sauce, awesome spring rolls, chicken steamed in beer, and hot pot. The people here are super friendly. Not since Tanzania have so many people (kids especially) said hello, smiled, waved, etc. The heat is rather oppressive so far, though I think that our tolerance to heat has gone up. It feels like it could rain at any moment as the humidity is very high and it has been overcast. Vietnam is green, green, green and water is everywhere. We have been surprised to see stores stocking so much Christmassy stuff - in particular Santa suits, which seem to be on sale in every third store you pass. It is 10% Catholic in this country so obviously there are locals celebrating, though I do wonder how much is driven by tourists.

Thats all I have to report for now.

Hope that all is well at home.

xoxo
Paula